Kimono-Dress or house-dress ‘Purple Shimmers’

Purple and print patchworks

Back view
GMP ANNOTATED - Finished (VVG FRONT LENGTH) 2018-03-27 1000px
One pocket at front
GMP annotated - Finnished, (VVG BACK DRAPED) all length, shadows and light 2018-03-27

Shape is cut for fitted bodice front and back with bat-wing (kimono – like) sleeves extending from shoulders to high waist.

Front lacing over gusset, adjusts bust size from 36″ to 40″

Sleeves have cuffs which will turn back at the seam for tasking.

GMP annotated - Finished (VVG LACINGS) collar close up 2018-03-27

Notice collar, although a proper one, is caught down into high waist seaming at front, which could be thinner if copying idea, and stitch down to a point where it meets gusset (which I would do for a smaller summer dress)

GMP annotated - Finished, (VVG FRONT, SLEEVES)clear bright right sleeve 2018-03-27
Gorgeous patchwork colours form treasure trove arrangement.  Generous fit up to 40 bust:  Sleeves are kimono style loose, starting from below bust line.  Lace ties ensure fit under bust.  Back bodice top is already fitted to body, with gathers below

To buy ‘Purple Shimmers’or to commission similar, visit ETSY shop

Purple Patchwork Kimono-Dress – Creation Journey

Purple fabric collection on floor - 800scale_2018-01-29
Purples ‘collection’ as garments from charity shops.  Plus bottom right hand plant-dyed silk
Purple fabric collection_edited_2018-02-03

Three or four plains and three to four prints, with maybe another contrasting plain works well.  At least 7 different fabrics are needed for a good patchwork result.  I used all these fabrics except for the hand dyed silk 3rd from right.  (It will go into a similar one)

Charity shop fabrics, purples, hangers_2018-01-15_ 002 - annotated
Charity shop finds to match existing purple fabrics.  The shiny dress will become lining.
WDPS Purple line dress, collar, button welt cut- off

When cutting up garments for patchwork, cut up along the sides of all seams.  Sometimes cotton and linen seams can be ripped undone, and more fabric saved.  Overall, unpicking is not worth the time it takes.

WDPS Purple, black, green blouse, cut-away at seams_2018-02-13

Sometimes there is fabric strain near darts or side seams as there were in this blouse.  In such case, don’t undo the seam where stitches have pulled.  This blouse had strain around the front dart seams.  Due to inherent weakness in the loose weave, this fabric will be quilt-machined onto a thin cotton backing, to ensure it stays firm.

Many parts of a garment can be recycled into a different new garment, such as this lace-styled neck.  It won’t be included in the kimono, but it will form the start of another dress, likely to be with navy, if only the lace is used, or navy and pink if the print is kept.

This top is from a stretch cotton fabric, so will be quilt machined onto a cotton, for firmness, to be similar in weight to the linen and taffeta.  If used only in its stretch state, it may cause a slight ‘baggyness’ in parts of the patchwork.

Cutting of patchwork pieces to follow soon  ……….

Design Philosophy

Shamanic Nights  makes a personal commitment to hand crafted ‘slow fashion‘.       ‘Up-cycled couture’ better describes my craft work, as each garment is very carefully hand made from cut up recycled clothes found in Devon Charity Shops.  Results show how recycled textiles can still be beautiful, worthy and robust when discarded prematurely.

We do not need any more ‘fast fashion’, where profits come before material resource depletion: particularly water, cotton (film ‘White gold’) & silk as well as human energy waste where internationally based workers are paid lowly for many hours hard work just so someone can buy many things cheaply, only to cast them out after a short while, due to fashion dictates.

Good quality fabrics can last many years.  The only fabric which will not wear well is mixtures with acrylic or polyester, as the acrylic polymer threads always ‘catch’ and ruck up bobbly, making a garment surface look ‘worn out’ and certainly undesirable.

My unique colourful one-off bespoke casual leisure garments are available to buy online.  Online Shop (part shopping, under construction)

Update 2018:  First Sunday in the month April – October, I shall be on Exeter Quay under the old fish market as part of Inside Outside Markets.

Some Shamanic Nights garments have painted silk designs by  Amelia Jane Designs  on my other site, where you can find textile designs – paint on paper – remaining designs from 1990’s international freelance textile works.

Maker commitment – Making process and working philosophy

Cherry Fluzzies A & B

Two similar patchwork dresses inspired by using two halves of a bright cerise pink acrylic wool scarf with stretchy structure for bust fit.  Purple silk, taffeta, and lace combine with a legging print to create an exciting party colour combination.

Cherry Fluzzie B

Shorter version with black wooden buttons, thin straps and an additional patchwork hem frill in purple silk and multi-toned silk patchwork and frill.  Making details below.

Cherry B, RIGHT side view, with hem frill, indoors, right side view.png

Pink-purple silk, purple-black printed taffeta and rose print on black leggings are the fabric inspirations to go with the frivolous wool tops.         A

To buy ‘Cherrie Fluzzie B‘ please email ameliajhoskins@gmail.com – there are two slightly different ones available.

Dylan - Wooly top buttons closeup Cherry B.png
Ends of cerise pink scarf (cut in two for 2 dresses): edges are folded over twice and sewn down by hand with with pink thread or pink wool. Black wooden engraved Chinese buttons utilize holes already in the acrylic wool. It is necessary to stretch the destined 'hole' and use a few stitches to secure 'open' top and bottom, so it identifies easily as the buttonhole.

Cherry Fluzzie A

Longer version with toning cerise pink buttons and wider shoulder straps.

Woolly top and buttons Cherry A - edited.png
cherry-a-front-view-best-indoors-front-view-blurred-editd-annotated

Pink-purple silk, purple/black printed taffeta, and rose print on black

leggings are the fabric inspirations to go with the frivolous wool tops.

cherry-fuzzie-a-fabric-patches-floral-close-up-edited-annotated
         Zig-zag machining holds down inside seams. Available in Shop

Cherry Fluzzie B    Making Garment:

 
patchwork-semi-circle-joined-front-unjoined
Patch pieces joined into a semi circle. Outer sides will will become front. Different length patches were used due to material shortage.
Patchworks machined 1.png
By cutting patch shapes into A shapes, with straight top and bottom edges, they build up into a semi circle.
Patchworks machined back full joined.png
Patchwork semi-circle folded in two, back view. When top curve becomes the waistline, gathered in, good folds hang in skirt. Make 'A' shaped patches until required size is reached. This section is wider than needed to gather onto woollen top.
cherry-b-pinned-frill-2
Bottom frill pinned to dress hem, before zig-zagging on. Frill hem will also be zig-zagged.
Cherry B, pinned, tacked frill.png
Frill hem pinned, tack gathered, prior to zig-zagging.

Making garment:  Cherry Fluzzie A

patches-cut-from-leggins-edited-rotated-annotated
Leggings cut into 8 patches, use 4 or 8 per dress.
(2 short upper, 2 longer lower in skirt section).
Thigh shapes, turned upside down make good patches to
use as templates which when added to create a flared
shape.
Patchwork pinned prior to sewing - accurate daylight colour.png
Front side patchworks pinned to check colour placements. Silk fabric behind crimson lace patches.
patchwork-machined-central-horizontal-joins
Inside seams:  Join short patches to long patches
forming strips. Press seams up or down alternately
to reduce bulk at seam crossroads. Pin vertical patch 
strips.  Machine, and likewise press alternate sides
to avoid bulk on all corners.
 
patchwork-1st-machining-right-side-edited-annotated
Patchworks machined - skirt section.
hand-stretch-cross-back-stitching-skirt-patchwork-to-woolly-top-annotated
Joining patchwork skirt to stretch wool top using large hand stitches: cross-stitch done as back-stitch. See 'Love Never Dies' patchwork dress for more accurate close up instructions of stretch stitch.