Butterflies and Black Lace Patchwork Dress, ‘Love Never Dies’ on Stretch T-shirt Bandeau

‘Love Never Dies’ inspiration taken from autumn floral printed T-shirt patch, used in dress centre front.

Bandeau top inspiration: cut from ethnic printed skinny stretch dress.

Dress is not yet in online shop…

Dress USE - FRONT daylight - edited.png

Patches made and joined in strips of three, then join those to make a length as shown in picture on floor.

Patchwork section attached to stretchy cotton bandeau top, by hand stretch back stitch shown in MAKING INSTRUCTIONS below.

Seams are overlapped one quarter inch – one half inch, and zig-zag machined to avoid bulky inside seams.  6 different patchwork fabrics are used making up a large rectangle of 11 patches x 3 patches.  Keep adding strips (here strips are 3 patches long).  Make strips until there are enough to join up around hips: add 2 extra patch widths to create fullness when attached to bandeau top.

NOTE:  black lace patches are made by fixing over lighter fabric base.  There are possibilities of using different backgrounds for lace, for more subtle effects.

Bandeau patchworks, machined.png

When choosing fabrics, 6 seems to be a good number of alternative fabrics.  They can be either contrasting, as here, or similar in tone.  Dark – Medium- Light is a good mix.

Muted schemes are more satisfactory and versatile than multi-rainbow colour themes.  The size of fabric areas cut from garments, dictates the size of the patches.  In this instance it was the ‘Love Never Dies’ T-shirt print I started from, giving me two patch lengths when cutting.

Bandeau patwork arrangements.png

I was originally going to position the patchworks in diagonal formation over a bias cut lining, but they weren’t cut square so it would look odd.  I therefore turned it to straightforward vertical arrangement.  Recycling 6 different garments, and cutting at least 8 patches from each, is a good start.  I cut more if I like a scheme and want to make another similar.

These patches are 12.5cm x 18cm cut (approximately 7″ x 5″).  Decide the length of garment skirt section needed, from seam under bandeau top, then divide by three for length of patchwork strips: to be either 3, 4, or 5 patches deep. 3 is enough for this short dress.

Dress USE - BACK CLOSEUP - edited.png

Close up of back, shows butterfly prints, and zig-zag seaming flat overlaps.

MAKING INSTRUCTIONS

Bandeau patchworks mcahined zigzag.png

Zig-zag machining of patches: overlap quarter inch,
making two rows at each overlap (note it is flat,
no folded seams).

Bandeau, pinning bandeau lower front to pathworks.png

Pinning patchwork length equally along bandeau bottom

on the inside.

bandeau-patchworks-pinned-evenly-to-bandeau

The patchwork top folded over and pinned in place, 

ready for stitching by hand.

Bandeau, front pinned, back not.png

How the pinning looks after pinning one section to sew.
More to follow.....

Hand sewing Patches to bandeau A stretch stitch completed two rows.png

Hand stitched back stitch which gives full stretch result.
Photo of stitch process omitted but IS SHOWN BELOW when
attaching lining to this seam join. (Note: I could have
machine-tacked lining to patches first, then stretch
stitched them both together, but I needed to experiment)

Hand sewing Patches to bandeau B stretch stitch outside.png

Outer view shows small hand stitches (stretch back stitch)
showing through.  Quite acceptable appearance;
could even be larger, as a feature.

hand-sewing-lining-c-stretch-stitch-lining-to-dress

Stretch back stitch: holding work this way, each needle
insertion is towards you, hand underneath can test for
flexibility of stretch, to ensure same stretch as patches
fabric.

hand-sewing-lining-a-stretch-stitch-from-left-to-right

Working left to right, back-stitching into patchwork
section above, and lining section below.  This lining
(taken from a dress), is on the 'bias' which aids
stretchiness. It would need to be same width as 
patchwork section sewn to, to give equal stretch.

Hand sewing Lining B stretch stitch lining to dress.png

Needle comes back to lining back stitch from upper
stitch. Needle goes in right to left, but stitches
complete to the right.

bandeau-hand-sewn-stretch-stitch-inside-bandeauside

Finished stretch stitch: inside of dress, just below
where dress patchwork attaches (also stretch stitch)
to bandeau.

lace-trim-turn-over-pinning-easing-in-fullness

Join strips of lace for hem trim.  I used a neck
frill and sleeve edges from a lace dress (4 cut
lengths). Press quarter inch in then pin to dress hem.

lace-trim-zig-zag-machining-turned-in-pinned-to-hem

Machining lace edgings to dress hem.  Zig-zag.

 

bandeau-inside-dress-after-zigzag-machining-over-topside-frill-edges-folded-in

Finished lace trim attached (inside view).
NOTE: dress fabric was turned under and pressed
towards front beforehand.

bandeau-lace-trim-machined-to-edge-of-patchwork

Finished lace trim showing front and inside back.

love-never-dies-5-fabric-border-added-to-lining

Fabric hem sewn to inside lining:
to sit behind black lace.

love-never-dies-6-bandeau-top-elastic-inserted

Top of bandeau is folded over and narrow elastic
inserted.  Stretchiness is preserved by using
stretch backstitch instead of machining.

A lot of scrolling for instructions!!

Future work will explore Slideshare and Flipboard embeds.

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2 thoughts on “Butterflies and Black Lace Patchwork Dress, ‘Love Never Dies’ on Stretch T-shirt Bandeau

  1. Very RUDE!! RUDE Girl loves patchwork from recycled fabrics but I am yet to make a garment. Love your bandeau style dress and how you have sewn the seams. Thank you for sharing the inspiration.

    1. Great to hear that RUDE girl. This would be an easy start for you to copy. The coming how-tos will show the stretch back stitch to attach skirt to bandeau, and retain the stretchy bust bandeau top.

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